It was the celestial event of the century. It was
the sort of thing that caused the primitives to beat drums and
sacrifice virgins. It was the sort of thing that made birds fly
upsidedown and cows crawl around like snakes. It was....
THE MOTHER-IN-LAW OF ALL TOTAL ECLIPSES! The Mexican
Government , expecting huge crowds, had everything prepared and
organized (...?). There were official
rumors that there would be road blocks and anyone without confirmed
reservations wouldn’t be allowed to pass and that special permits would
be required for the purchase of gas etc. People were warned away.
And as a result
the crowds never materialized! In fact the highway was virtually
empty
except for the gas tankers brought in to service the expected increased
demand
and the Federal Highway Police, having nothing to do, racing around
in
packs trying to look necessary.
It's about 1500 miles from Monterey California to the tip of Baja.
The Church at San Ignacio. This is an amazing oasis and lake
after hundreds of miles of desert.
The church at Santa Rosalia. This was designed by Gustav
Eiffel, built in France and crated to this location.
Classic Eiffel curtain-wall construction.
Hypnotic ugliness?
Mulege Lagoon
Amazing forests of huge cactus (largest in the World) that extend
from the mountain down to the sea.
Ingrid didn't seem nearly as afraid of this as I was.
Scouting a good location for viewing.
The Gulf of California.
On the beach at Cabo San Lucas. The rock in the background
is about 200 feet high and we saw sling and anchors on several obvious
routes.
The previous day we had scouted around
and
determined that the best viewing location was not on the exact
centerline of the shadow which was in a valley and crowded, but
about a mile north on a knoll from which you could see both the Pacific
and the Gulf of California. We set up there about 8 in the
morning and were soon joined by some folks from Bolivia and Japan.
It was perfectly clear and about 100 degrees at mid-morning.
The fellow on the left is a Mexican Highway Patrolman who was
pretending to be in a radio silence area so he could watch the eclipse
with us. We shared a beer with him.
We jury-rigged a viewing screen
Whoops!......false eclipse.
The entire 360 degree horizon looked like this at
totality.

Photograph taken through a large
fisheye lens pointed straight up. The eclipse is at the zenith
and in the center of the photo surrounded by stars. Around
the perimeter can be seen the 360 degree sunrise/sunset and
various people and equipment in silhouette.